How big should the main subject in your photos be? Deep in the wild heart of northern Kahurangi National Park is a subalpine tableland that rises to 870m. Mackay Downs features numerous granite tors which punctuate peat-filled valleys of tussock. Home to Powelliphanta snails and weka, this piece of paradise is truly off the radar. Tucked away up a narrow lane on the edge of this peneplain, almost out of sight, is a standard six-bunk hut – an island of candlelight in an ocean of waving red tussock. Hard-to-find huts are a sort of holy grail for hut baggers such as myself, and a welcome refuge for those adventure seekers with competent off-track navigation skills. Fifty years old, the old hut
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